Quantcast
Channel: Nancy Baggett's Kitchenlane
Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 115

Exploring the United Kingdom's Orkney Islands, plus a Favorite Shortbread Recipe

$
0
0


I am on vacation in the UK now, traveling about the islands in the Orkney chain off the north coast of Scotland. These islands are remarkable both for their breathtaking natural beauty and wealth of
View from Hackness Battery, island of Hoy
major archaeological sites. The air and water are clean and clear and landscapes serene and bucolic. Since I am on the road visiting a new island nearly every day, I'm going to keep this post short, and mostly let the images tell the story of our trip.

Cattle grazing on the Orkney Mainland island

Sheep grazing on the island of  Sanday
As the two photos just above suggest, farming is the major industry; we've seen cattle and sheep grazing on all twelve islands we visited. Archeological evidence indicates that the inhabitants have raised cattle here for more than 5,000 years--their bones have found in Neolithic settlement sites, including the amazing Scara Brae pictured below; a whole community lived in this stone village dating back to about 3,000 BC!
Skara Brae Neolithic Village, Mainland, Orkney


Interior of  a Skara Brae family "home."


Mid Howe Neolithic Stalled Burial Cairn, Rousay island.
Even more common that Neolithic villages are burial cairns, such as the "stalled" Mid Howe structure pictured above. It is massive compared to most though, with 12 stalls running along a central passage and a tomb that stretches a length of 77 feet.

Many Orkney vistas feature water--from the ample scattering of bright blue lochs inland to harbors and the miles of rocky coastline that meet the north Atlantic and North Sea. Due to the coastal waters, plus salmon farms, most islands are also home to some fishermen.


Stromness harbor, Mainland, Orkney


Creel pots, Tingwall Pier, Mainland, Orkney
Their creels (crab and lobster pots) and weathered wooden fish boxes can been seen stacked up on piers from Pierowall in Rousay, to Tingwall on the Mainland, to Kettletoft on the island of Sanday. We've enjoyed pristinely fresh scallops, mussels, prawns, salmon, haddock, and several dishes that featured the crabs below.

Brown crabs on Pierowall Pier, Westray, Orkney
Called brown crabs (no surprise!) they don't look or taste quite like the Chesapeake bay blue crabs we're so familiar with, but are quite good. The shot was taken just as the Westray island crabbers were transferring them from their boats to tubs headed for the processing plant right across the road from the Pierowall pier.

Petticoat Tails Shortbread

Most of the hotels and B & Bs in the Orkney islands have been setting out shortbread on our tea tray everyday--and we have been happily munching away! So it seems appropriate to conclude with this shortbread adapted from my International Cookie Cookbook. As is typical, it is rich and buttery, yet mild and barely sweet. I like to add a bit of vanilla, even though traditional recipes rarely call for it. Long, slow baking heightens the butter flavor and gives the slices a faint tawny color. The homespun petticoat tails have a slightly tender-crunchy, melt-in-the-mouth texture and, like most shortbreads, go quite well with a cup of tea.

How shortbread baked in a round and cut into wedges came to be named petticoat tails is somewhat of a mystery. Some say it references the hoop skirts of early English court ladies; others think it’s a corruption of the French “petite galettes,” or little cakes. Choice one is more entertaining and fanciful, so I'm leaning in that direction.

1 cup (2 sticks) cool and firm unsalted butter, cut into chunks
7 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Generous 1/4 teaspoon fine table salt
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Place a rack in the middle of the oven; preheat to 300 degrees F. Set out a 10-inch fluted tart pan or 10- to 11-inch pie plate. (If using a pie plate, line it with foil that overhangs 2 inches on opposing sides.) Set out a large ungreased baking sheet.

Combine the butter, all but 1 tablespoon sugar (reserve the 1 tablespoon for garnish), the vanilla, and salt in a large bowl. With a mixer on medium speed, beat about 2 minutes or until very well blended and lightened in color, scraping down the bowl as needed. On low speed, beat in the flour until evenly incorporated. If the mixer motor labors, knead in the last of the flour with your hands. If the dough is dry and crumbly knead in a teaspoon or two of water.

Press the dough evenly into the tart pan or pie plate: If using the tart pan finish the dough edges by pushing it into the fluted indentations; be sure the dough edge is evenly thick all the way around. If using a foil-lined pie plate, press the dough evenly into the bottom and out to the edges until it is evenly thick at the perimeter. With the tines of a fork or the dowel-like side of a wooden spoon handle, press decorative indentations into the dough edge all the way around.

Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar evenly over the dough surface. Smooth the dough surface and imbed the sugar by laying a sheet of wax paper over top, then smoothing out and pressing down with your fingertips. With a table knife, carefully cut the dough into quarters, then cut each quarter into 4 or 5 wedges.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the shortbread is fragrant and not quite firm when pressed in the center top. Let the pan cool for about 20 minutes on a wire rack; the shortbread is too tender to handle will hot. When cool, carefully retrace the cuts if necessary. Gently lift out the shortbread wedges and place, slightly separated, on the baking sheet. Return to the oven for 15 to 20 minutes longer, just until the wedges just start to color slightly all over. Transfer to a wire rack; let stand until completely cooled. Keep airtight at room temperature for up to 3 weeks. Freeze airtight for up to 2 months.

Makes 16 or 20 petticoat tails (wedges).


View from Aynhallow Sound of Rousay harbor.

Print



Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 115

Trending Articles